Sunday, July 28, 2013

"Ní fhéadfaidh an cróga beo go deo, ach ní dhéanann na aireach beo ar chor ar bith." -Irish t-shirt. Ar nóta taobh, is breá liom scamaill na hÉireann.

Friday, July 26, 2013 8:30 pm
On the way to Rosslare
The end of my journey has finally come. Ireland is where it all began (for the few hours I was there) & where it ends. This time I get to enjoy the country's beauty for much longer. At the conclusion of my all nighter on Wednesday morning, Hugo & I enjoyed a nice breakfast before parting ways, he to Prague, Czech Republic (quite jealous) & me to Cherbourg, France. The ferry ride was WONDERFUL compared to the first one I went on in June. There was plenty of space in the room of reserved seats to sleep on the floor, a shower, & peace & quiet. I caught up on my much needed sleep thanks to the soothing back & forth rocking of the ship.

Right before we docked into Rosslare, Ireland, I decided to head to the west coast to Galway for my first stop. Two nights in Galway, one night in Limerick, one night in Cork, & the last 2 nights in Dublin are what await me although Limerick might have to be skipped due to procrastination & lack of hostels for tomorrow night. The train ride from Rosslare to Dublin was fantastic…we were squashed between the sea & high cliffs most of the way. Once I made it to Dublin, I somehow managed to catch the next train to Galway within the 2 minute time frame before it was to leave. Even though I was only in this country for a little over a day, it made quite an impression making me want to come back for a better taste. The Irish people have been the nicest group of people I have met anywhere (even nicer than US Southerners!!). They’re always jovial, willing to help out, & have some kind of story to tell you. Ireland did not disappoint in my expectations as I gawked at the many sheep passing by my window.


Clouds.
Galway is a small college town that is probably as big as my neighborhood in Boston. It is full of young people hanging out in the square, street performers, local shops, & pubs…many, many pubs. I had to splurge & spend the money to tour the Cliffs of Moher which was absolutely worth it. Des & Ray, father & son, were our tour guides/bus driver throughout the day. Des is the cutest, most charming, older Irishman you will ever meet.




Sunday, July 28, 2013 1:42 pm
The Doolin Chocolate Shop
I have been trying to finish this blog post for the past 3 days, but it has been a rollercoaster ride for me. Ok, from where I left off. One of our stops was in a small town called Doolin…if you ever happen to visit this place, you HAVE to go to The Doolin Chocolate Shop & buy a raspberry white chocolate bar & chat up the owner. One of the greatest things about this beautiful country is the Irish folk. No matter who you are, what you want, they are always going to greet you with a big smile & ask how your day is going. It reminds me quite a bit like home in South Carolina…when we drive down the roads through our neighborhood, we wave to our neighbors or other drivers whether we know them or not. When I moved to Boston, there was none of that to my disappointment. On the trains, there is no talking to other people because you would be considered weird otherwise. I remember when I first moved up to Boston how I silently conspired to change all of that, one person at a time. But Boston got to me, & I slowly started to turn into one of them. I have caught myself MANY times going up to an Irish person to ask for help & immediately ask my question instead of greet them. Everytime, before I start talking, they do it first! It’s a nice reminder of what one of my many missions in Boston is. Eventually I will get everyone saying y’all too (got one already!).


Cliffs of Moher
Tempting the wind
Back to my story…the shop owner is an older lady who was sitting outside of her small business people watching. As I made one of the hardest decisions of my life, which delicious, beautiful chocolately chocolate do I buy, she was all smiles, so happy to “talk to an American,” & asked about my life story as I finally settled on the raspberry bar. Lunch of champions. During the ride, Des mentioned a bar in Boston that used to be owned by an Irish guy who died, so his brother took it over. That bar is The Druid, the same bar that my Starbucks regular, John, & I have visited for the Tuesday Irish music nights & have plans to visit when I get back. Small world!! We also stopped by an Irish pub where I drank my first Irish coffee. I should have known better that an "Irish" coffee is not the same as coffee coffee, but I quickly learned as I choked on the surprise whiskey. It made my cup o’ coffee much more enjoyable though.

My adopted family
The Burren
We made it to The Burren as my cute tour guide gave us many laughs along the way, took pictures of the stones, & then headed to the Cliffs. I haven’t seen anything this beautiful in my entire life. The Burren is one of the largest karst-landscapes in Europe hosting the Poulnabrone dolmen, which was probably used as a ritual site through the Celtic period (courtesy of Wikipedia). The Cliffs of Moher are along the west coast & rise as high as 702 feet. Nine people have fallen to their deaths this year. As we got off the bus ready to tempt the wind into pushing us off, 4 Spaniards on our tour adopted me. We made our way to the edge of the cliffs…the EDGE edge on our bellies. Looking over the cliffs with the seagulls flying down below, the waves crashing, thinking how much it would suck if I fell, was perfect. The weather was perfect with the fluffiest, brightest clouds you have ever seen & the sun reflecting against the water. Alfonso, Christian, Cristina, & I made our way to the castle tower on one of the cliffs when of course a thunderstorm out of nowhere comes rolling in. The dark sky & rumbling thunder on one side was a great contrast to the beautiful blue on the other. Back to the bus we went.

Realizing I had a "pee" spot on my dress after sitting in a puddle
More cliffs
We enjoyed a peaceful 2 hour ride back to the hostel listening to Irish music & Des's jokes. Again, I waited the day of to book my hostel on a Saturday night. Why don’t I ever learn!?!? I was hoping to make it to Limerick for the night, Cork the next, & finish my last couple of nights in Dublin. All of the Limerick hostels were booked. All of the Cork hostels were booked. I decided to make my way down to Cork for the day & figure out what to do once I got there. After all, I had to make it to Blarney Castle to kiss the Blarney Stone! Legend has it, kissing the Blarney Stone gives you the gift of eloquence with a possibility of cold sores (still waiting for that to be determined). Be careful guys, I’m a flirtin’ machine now! Just kidding, I tried it out last night. I’m still socially awkward. I met an au pair, Magdalena, from Austria & joined her as she searched for the Blarney Stone too. Instead of butchering the story, this is what the website says:


A Mandrake plant like in Harry Potter =D
“Some say it was Jacob’s Pillow, brought to Ireland by the prophet Jeremiah. Here it became the Lia Fail or ‘Fatal Stone’, used as an oracular throne of Irish kings – a kind of Harry Potter-like ‘sorting hat’ for kings. It was also said to be the deathbed pillow of St Columba on the island of Iona. Legend says it was then removed to mainland Scotland, where it served as the prophetic power of royal succession, the Stone of Destiny. When Cormac MacCarthy, King of Munster, sent five thousand men to support Robert the Bruce in his defeat of the English at Bannockburn in 1314, a portion of the historic Stone was given by the Scots in gratitude – and returned to Ireland. Others say it may be a stone brought back to Ireland from the Crusades – the ‘Stone of Ezel’ behind which David hid on Jonathan’s advice when he fled from his enemy, Saul. A few claim it was the stone that gushed water when struck by Moses. Whatever the truth of its origin, we believe a witch saved from drowning revealed its power to the MacCarthys.”


Kissing the Blarney Stone/eating my hair...eloquence, here I come.
My new friend.
After successfully not falling through the grate to our deaths as we kissed the stone, Magdalena & I went to a pub where I had my first Guinness. It was…an experience. The waiter sat us down, asked where we were from, then told me to follow him after discovering I live in Boston. I followed his maze as he took me to the back of the bar where a "Mansfield St" street sign was hanging. He took me up to meet the owner, who was born at the hospital a minute's walk down the road from my house. One of his friends from back home took that street sign from Allston/Boston (right beside Brighton/Boston) & sent it to him to proudly show off. On our busride home, Magdalena gave me some great German bands to listen to. At some point in the day, I decided to head straight to Dublin for the remainder of my stay, because a Saturday night in Dublin is going to be a fun one...unless your train has a 2.5 hour delay that involves a bus transfer with a talkative German resulting in you getting home at 1 am. Then you just want to go to bed.


My first Guinness...wasn't...very good.
She knows how to drink a beer.
Lucas, a German ecologist living in Ireland working on his PhD, immediately sat down, offered me a beer, & entertained me for the next few hours as we made our slow journey to Dublin. We had a great time joking around until I went back to my hostel & realized I had visible (dark) food in my front teeth from dinner with Magdalena. My grace never fails me.

When I got off the train last night, I almost had a heart attack. On a Saturday night with no spare money, the ATM machine declined my card saying to call my bank. Thanks bank. Looks like I would not be having an Irish Saturday night after all. I had a feeling it was going to be another repeat of Spain, just without any money! I headed to the hostel at 1 am, told Dave, the midnight attendant, what was going on & reluctantly offered my passport until I could get the money somehow, to which he said was not allowed. Well at least this gave me the opportunity to try something new & sleep on the streets. Thankfully, I went to another ATM that was more than happy to give me my monies. Dave took pity on me (probably the food that was still in my teeth), upgraded my room, & gave me one of the best 3 hours of sleep I have had on this trip. Before heading to bed, I was trying to write this blog, but Dave decided to hang out with me & talk for the next 2 hours. We had a great time discussing how great Budapes(h)t is & swapped our life stories. I swear, these people are fantastic!! As soon as Dave left, some drunk guys & ladies coming in after a late night decided to kidnap me to who knows where in the hostel for shenanigans & good times. So it was a pretty great, late Saturday night after all.

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